Anna Wintour at Vogue: her legacy and who’s next

Anna Wintour steps down as Vogue’s top editor after years of shaping the fashion landscape

When Anna Wintour submitted her first issue of American Vogue in late 1988, the response from the magazine’s printer was unexpected: “Has there been a mistake?” The cover, featuring model Michaela Bercu in a Christian Lacroix couture jacket paired with jeans, departed from the highly stylized, formal portraits that had defined the magazine for decades. The shot was casual, taken outdoors, and captured a spontaneous energy that would come to symbolize a new chapter for Vogue.

That moment set the tone for Wintour’s vision—one that would reshape not only the magazine, but the fashion industry itself. She brought a sense of realism and accessibility to a publication once steeped in high glamour. The decision to feature a model in denim, albeit unintentionally due to a wardrobe mishap, marked a cultural shift. It signaled that fashion could belong on the street, not just on the runway.

After establishing her reputation at British Vogue, Wintour was recruited to rejuvenate the American version, and for 37 years, she successfully accomplished that task. With her direction, the magazine confidently navigated through the supermodel epoch, the emergence of grunge, the predominance of celebrity culture, and the shift toward prioritizing digital storytelling. During this period, Wintour consistently demonstrated a keen understanding of the broader cultural implications of fashion and its potential to impact more than just attire.

This week, Wintour revealed she would be resigning from her position as editor-in-chief of Vogue, concluding one of the most impactful editorial careers in the history of fashion. Although she will remain as chief content officer at Condé Nast—a role she has occupied since 2020—her exit from the magazine’s editorial leadership marks the end of a notable era.

Wintour’s impact with Vogue extends far beyond the boundaries of its magazine. She transformed the norms of fashion covers, significantly including celebrities in a space that was previously reserved solely for models. In her first year, she placed Madonna on the cover—an unanticipated choice that launched a new mix of fashion and popular culture. This began a change that eventually embraced reality TV stars, political figures, and cultural icons appearing on the magazine’s covers.

Throughout her time at Vogue, Wintour kept her finger on the pulse of public interest, adjusting the magazine’s tone to reflect broader shifts in media and consumer behavior. Her editorial instincts often translated into real-world influence. For instance, she was among the first to bring figures like Kim Kardashian and Ivanka Trump into fashion’s mainstream conversation, offering them a platform that significantly expanded their visibility.

This editorial influence did not go unchallenged. Wintour’s choices occasionally faced opposition, like the debated 2008 magazine cover with LeBron James and Gisele Bündchen, which stirred discussions on racial imagery and representation. Nevertheless, these instances only solidified the truth that Wintour had emerged as a key player in the conversation about fashion and influence.

Her unique fashion—characterized by her distinctive bob haircut and iconic sunglasses—became synonymous with her career image. Wintour’s attendance at the Met Gala, the coveted prestige of the September edition, and numerous nods to her image in popular culture (like the imaginary Miranda Priestly in The Devil Wears Prada) all cemented her status as a cultural influencer.

Although there was an enigmatic presence about her public image, Wintour frequently minimized the focus on her persona. She was more invested in the creativity and editorial direction of the publications she managed than in personal perceptions. Nevertheless, her impact was undeniable, and she often acknowledged it with self-awareness by attending events such as the The Devil Wears Prada musical gala, accepting the parallels without explicitly validating them.

Throughout her career, Wintour adeptly preserved her influence within a consistently evolving industry. Her capability to remain relevant amidst significant shifts in media—from traditional magazines to digital platforms—highlights her adaptability and strategic foresight. She recognized early on the importance of an online presence, even as traditional print outlets struggled to keep their audience. Although some critics contended there was an excessive emphasis on celebrity stories in the digital age, Wintour maintained that these choices were crucial for retaining cultural relevance.

Former colleagues and fashion insiders suggest that Wintour’s decision to step back was likely her own. As chief content officer, she still holds sway over Vogue and other major Condé Nast titles, and will reportedly have a say in choosing her successor. The speculation surrounding that choice is already building.

Potential candidates include Eva Chen, holding the position of director of fashion partnerships at Instagram, where her broad digital knowledge plays a crucial role in today’s media landscape. Chioma Nnadi is frequently mentioned as well, as she oversees the editorial content at British Vogue, and is regarded as one of Wintour’s protégés. Her career advancement within the organization is being closely watched, representing a potential continuation of Wintour’s influence with a new generational view.

Other people mentioned include Amy Astley, who used to be in charge of Teen Vogue and currently leads Architectural Digest, as well as senior editors like Chloe Schama and Chloe Malle. Furthermore, Wintour’s daughter, Bee Shaffer Carrozzini, involved in film production within the fashion realm, has also been part of the discussions—though such forecasts are entirely conjectural.

As Wintour steps away from the magazine she helped shape into a global authority, industry observers are left to consider the weight of her influence. Fashion has changed dramatically during her tenure—not only in style but in its place within cultural and political discourse. Issues like sustainability, ethical labor practices, and digital democratization have transformed fashion from a niche interest into a broader conversation about identity, values, and social change.

Wintour, often seen as the gatekeeper of fashion’s inner circle, helped open those gates—though not without maintaining a firm grip on the standards of taste and innovation that Vogue became known for. Her ability to merge exclusivity with mass appeal, and high fashion with everyday relevance, is perhaps her greatest legacy.

In contemplating what’s ahead, the challenge for the successor will be to continue navigating a dynamic landscape. Balancing the commercial needs of modern media with the newly linked cultural responsibilities in fashion won’t be easy. Yet, Wintour has already played a role in forging this direction.

In various respects, her attendance at the wedding of Jeff Bezos and Lauren Sánchez earlier this year highlighted her distinct cultural status. Featuring Sánchez on the cover in 2023, Wintour was not just a guest at the occasion—she had contributed to framing the story surrounding it.

For all her editorial achievements, Wintour’s greatest contribution may be the way she expanded fashion’s relevance beyond its traditional boundaries. She didn’t just document trends—she influenced them, predicted them, and, in many cases, created them.

As Anna Wintour exits the editor-in-chief role, Vogue and the broader fashion world enter a period of reflection and transition. Her departure is not just the end of an era—it’s a moment to consider what comes next for a publication, and an industry, that she helped define.